Since the emergence of the athleisure trend, it has become clear that various synergies existing between specific segments of the textile sector can be exploited. For example, lingerie lace is being incorporated into the shirts of women runners, and functional materials are being used in sexy briefs. Home and household textiles can also profit from the transfer of ideas from one sector to another. For example, the possibilities offered by typical warp knitting machines used in the clothing sector are now bringing a touch of flamboyance to the home.
KARL MAYER has taken up this trend of transferring ideas from one sector to another in the textile industry and has used its tried-and-tested RASCHELTRONIC® machine to produce stable upholstery fabrics. This high-speed jacquard raschel machine has been a firm favourite among producers of sportswear and lingerie fabrics for some time now. These companies are using the RASCHELTRONIC® to produce stretch and non-stretch textiles with functional zones. The model used is designated the RSJC 5/1 EL, and this new collection has made it an interesting proposition for manufacturers of home textiles as well. The fabrics feature an attractive, graphic design with open-work constructions, and are extremely heavy for RASCHELTRONIC® fabrics. The final fabrics weigh between 330 and 400 g/m², depending on the arrangement of the weft lapping. In some designs, the weft runs along the holes, which therefore remain open, and does not join any stitch wales. In other patterns, the ground bars with the weft add to the openings, which affects the appearance and characteristics of the textile. The warp-knitted textiles, with the partially filled-in openings, are denser and more stable in every direction. All the fabrics also have the appropriate abrasion resistance values for use as upholstery fabrics. The results of abrasion tests carried out by textile developers at KARL MAYER lie within the average range of the specific requirements of most manufacturers. The performance of these durable warp-knitted fabrics has also attracted the attention of shoe fabric producers. “The machines are selling very well globally,” says Stefan Gross from the Product Development, Textile Technology Department at KARL MAYER.
Further reasons for the success of the RASCHELTRONIC® include its high level of flexibility, since the EL feature enables different patterns to be worked easily one after the other at an exceptional production rate. At a maximum speed of 1,000 min-1, this new high-speed jacquard raschel machine can produce an average of 48 metres of this new upholstery fabric per hour. The machine gauge is E 18 and the working width is 130″. Textured, tanglelaced polyester is used as the yarn.
KARL MAYER develops and manufactures high-performance warp preparation machines for both weaving and warp knitting and, in order to do this, uses the synergies that exist between the two sectors. The WKD-SP is the latest result of this know-how and technology transfer. This direct warping machine is based on the WARPDIRECT® machine for the weaving sector, and processes staple-fibre yarns. Producers of warp-knitted, cotton terry towels should find this particularly interesting. This new machine delivers all the performance features of its predecessor but, above all, its advantages can be exploited by using back beams, with their wider widths, as sectional warp beams (SWBs) in the warp knitting sector.
Efficient warping with the WARPDIRECT®
Die WARPDIRECT® is a universal direct warping machine for processing every type of staple-fibre yarn. It produces high-quality beams for the slasher dyeing process in denim dyeing, for combining all the yarns on the warp beams on the assembling machine, and for processing in a sizing machine with subsequent warp beam production. The back beams for these various processes are of the highest quality. The beams are completely cylindrical, thanks to an intelligent press roller system and optimum yarn laying, and the yarns are arranged extremely accurately. A computer-controlled length measuring system delivers a length accuracy of 0.1 %. The yarns are also handled very gently. Other advantages of the WARPDIRECT® include its low maintenance costs and high productivity. The maximum warping speed is 1,200 m/min. The easy-to-use, graphic touchscreen guarantees optimum machine usage. All these advantages enable the WKD-SP to now be used for the production of SWBs for the warp knitting sector as well.
Efficient production of towels using the WKD-SP and TM 4 TS EL
The starting point for modifying the WARPDIRECT® to create the WKD-SP were the demands made by the TM 4 TS EL during use. An efficient direct warping machine was needed to match this efficient machine for producing warp-knitted cotton terry towels. The modifications that were needed relate mainly to the software. The program changes enable constant yarn tension levels and completely uniform SWB circumferences to be produced. SWBs with the same circumferences and yarn tension levels are needed, since several of them are processed at the same time on the TM 4 TS EL.
The SWBs of the new direct warping machine have the same width as back beams. This means that the number can be reduced when loading the machine, and the direct beaming process becomes more efficient. For example, with a TM 4 TS EL with a gauge of E 24, a working width of 186″ and the normal threading arrangement of 1 in, 1 out, eight SWBs per axle of the beam frame can be reduced to two large-format ones.
KARL MAYER is putting the emphasis on flexibility by concentrating specifically on the width of the SWBs. For example, the extra-wide SWBs can also be used on its tried-and-tested direct warping machine and, for the WKD-SP, this manufacturer enables back beams to be processed to suit customer requirements. Customers are, therefore, able to use beams supplied by both local and global suppliers.
25 AÑOS AL SERVICIO DE NUESTROS CLIENTES !!!!
Desde 1981 investigamos, experimentamos, innovamos. Y hacemos much más que fabricar máquinas de acabado.
Core es una nueva tecnología aplicable a lavadoras y máquinas de teñido Tonello, capaz de crear efectos homogéneos o contrastantes sobre denim y prendas listas para el teñido. Permite además aplicar una amplia gama de productos auxiliares de forma totalmente automática.
Core es una tecnología especial, capaz de crear efectos homogéneos o contrastantes que van más allá del efecto moda y liberan toda la potencialidad de una prenda. El proceso es rápido, completamente automático y programable; asegura mejores rendimientos durante su aplicación y se realiza en la máquina, sin preparaciones especiales ni conexiones. Core está íntegramente interconectada con la máquina y se puede emplear en cualquier ciclo productivo sin tener que interrumpir el proceso. Core a su vez reduce drásticamente el empleo de agua: de hecho, permite realizar por primera vez teñidos de bajísimo impacto medioambiental, con una relación de baño de 1:1. Core va más allá de los efectos moda para liberar toda la potencialidad de una prenda; según las necesidades y los resultados deseados, permite aplicar también productos auxiliares, como suavizantes, resinas para bigotes 3D, resinas hidrófugas, productos antibacterianos, etc.
CDL KNITS / TROPIC KNITS in Mauritius strike a new path in textile finishing
The TROPIC KNITS Group located in Mauritius is with 3.000 employees one of the biggest producers of high-quality fine knit garments in the Indian Ocean. Well-known international brands from Europe, U.S. and South Africa are among the company’s most important customers since many years.
Pic 1: Main entrance at TROPIC KNITS
The textile industry has changed very much particularly in the past years, not least caused by a changed consumer behavior: increased online shopping, shorter production lead-times, fast fashion cycles and quick turnaround for new collections coupled with high quality customer demands at the right price.
And, in addition to that, the focus has been on sustainable production meaning compliance to environmental standards and social compliance. These are the great challenges for TROPIC KNITS, the garment division of the Group. The company achieves this among other things thanks to their excellent targetoriented, customer focused and flexible team. CDL KNITS, a fully integrated knitting, dyeing and finishing plant is the Fabric Mill division of the TROPIC KNITS Group. There, they have the ability to control the complete production chain which allows rapid optimization of processes to improve fabric quality as per customer demand.
At Forest Side in Mauritius, CDL KNITS is producing every day approximately 17 tons of knitted fabric out of which 80% is assigned for TROPIC KNITS which converts them into garments. The rest is exported to South Africa in open-width fabric form.
Since quite a long time the operations and finishing team of CDL KNITS has been looking for leaner production processes that would lead to further savings in terms of resources and energy for the company.
During ITMA 2015 in Milan the first ideas were discussed with different textile machine manufacturers and very soon their thoughts became a mature and solid concept. CDL KNITS manufactures a variety of cotton fabric, cotton blends and viscose. The finishing line they operated at that time comprised a relaxation dryer, a stenter and a compactor. The intention was to replace these three finishing machines by only one line without compromises regarding quality. In the beginning this seemed to be rather unrealistic on a technical point of view.
The German textile machinery producer BRÜCKNER TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIES kept their ears open to the concept. An intense exchange of insights began, new ideas were discussed and several fabric trials were performed in the BRÜCKNER Technology Centre in Leonberg/Germany. Together, a completely new machine concept has been developed which CDL bought for their production site in Mauritius. Most important was the mutual trust which has developed during the phase of conceptual design between BRÜCKNER and CDL KNITS. The excellent assistance by the complete BRÜCKNER team, the technological advice and the positive results of the trials in Leonberg were in the end convincing and crucial for the purchase decision.
The new BRÜCKNER line for knitted fabric which will in future replace CDL’s three finishing machines is a special design: a relaxation dryer with pre-arranged stentering zone. Scroll rollers in the entry of the line provide for the spreading of the fabric and skew straightening rollers for the reduction of spirality.
After that the fabric is pinned on precisely directly behind a special selvedge spreading unit, so that the selvedge waste is later reduced to a minimum. A non-lub vertical transport chain, developed particularly for knitted fabric, transports the fabric through a ten-meter-long stentering zone. It is provided with a selvedge gumming unit, comprising several IR dryers and further hot air dryers for a complete drying of
the gummed selvedges. Depending on the process and the fabric quality it is possible to operate with up to 60% overfeed and a wet overstretching of 40% and more.
Pic 2: New BRÜCKNER line for knitted fabric at CDL KNITS, Mauritius
At the end of the stentering zone a selvedge cutting device is installed. With minimum tension the fabric is then fed on to a specially coated transport belt leading into the 4-zone relaxation dryer. The fabric is dried with an optimized air control concept and it is relaxed due to the tumble-like movement so that the residual shrinkage is reduced to a minimum. The individually adjustable air flow in the dryer and the wet spreading and shrinkage in the stentering zone allows to influence the quality features such as shrinkage, fabric width and fabric surface to the optimum. The curling of edges in the dryer is prevented by a systematic and selective arrangement of the circulating air. This new technology allows to save previously required expensive process steps.
Pic 3: View of the stentering zone in front of the relaxation dryer
BRÜCKNER’s Technical Director for Mechanical Design, who is an expert for the finishing of knitted fabric at the same time, wanted to assure himself that the recently developed concept is performing perfectly.
He visited CDL KNITS in Mauritius directly after commissioning of the new line. Together with the customer he made tests with different fabrics and determined the optimum process parameters for each fabric quality. The operators were directly involved and correspondingly trained.
After a short time CDL could start the production and the results speak for themselves. The fabric quality is better than expected and the residual shrinkage as well as the spirality are for all fabric types less than 5%. CDL is already now saving about 40% of electrical and thermal energy compared to their previous process. But the biggest saving is definitely the significant reduced process time. Where previously 90 hours were required, is today 20 hours to achieve the same productivity. This gives enormous benefits regarding the delivery time.
Pic 4: 4-zone relaxation dryer in the new line for knitted fabric of CDL KNITS
But there are some more aspects which made CDL KNITS invest in a BRÜCKNER line. The state-of-the-art lines of the German machinery producer are very robust and durable. Spare parts and support are available for all machines, even if they are 20 or 30 years old. In addition the machines are produced 100% in BRÜCKNER’s own plant in Tittmoning / Bavaria, in Germany and they are always tailor-made to the
customer’s needs. Furthermore BRÜCKNER attaches particular importance on an energy-efficient technology to save costs for their customers when operating the lines and to reduce simultaneously the consumption of resources.
The TROPIC KNITS Group is part of the FINE KNITS cluster of CIEL TEXTILES which is also located in Mauritius.
The complete Group has more than 20.000 employees with an annual turnover of about 300 million USD. Once a year CIEL TEXTILES hosts the CIEL Textile Chairman’s Manufacturing Excellence Award for its capital intensive companies. This is a good occasion to bring together the employees of the individual business units and to emphasize the team spirit and the solidarity of the whole team. Because
only together it is possible to master challenges. The Knitting Division of CDL KNITS won the award for Manufacturing Excellence twice in 2015 and 2016. This year, in September 2017, CDL won the World Class Innovation & Creativity Award. The installation of the new BRÜCKNER line at CDL KNITS and the corresponding benefits for the company played a small but nevertheless important role in winning the award.
The group and each individual business unit attach great importance on sustainability. This includes the saving of resources (water, oil, electricity, etc.), but also social responsibility with a vision for the future.
CDL KNITS came up with the initiative “Stairway to Hope”. The objective is to help underprivileged people in the community. Selvedge waste from production is provided to socially disadvantaged persons who knit these into rug mats which they sell and earn a living. The required equipment (for example wooden frames or needles) is made available by CDL KNITS who also supports the people in the sales of their products. The project is also known as “WASTE to GOLD”. Since last year, CDL KNITS is engaged on a yearly basis on a D-Day, also known as Love Day, with a community close to its production facility. This is an opportunity where all the employees of the company would gel with the people living in the community
and organise different activities such as free medical check-ups, planting of trees, cleaning of the environment, awareness on drugs and diseases and also distribute food and school materials to the needy. In September 2017, CDL KNITS was also awarded the CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) Award among the capital intensive units of CIEL TEXTILES.
Verena Ruckh, Head of Marketing at BRÜCKNER, is really inspired. „A great commitment with many exciting social projects. During my stay at CDL and TROPIC KNITS in Mauritius I met so many highly motivated people from various cultures who always welcomed me with a smile. When I walked through the company I could feel the spirit of willing to move something forward together as a team. This is something
very special and it impressed me deeply. Keep it up!”
The Group now benefits from a state-of-the-art and durable BRÜCKNER line for knitted fabric which clearly saves thermal and electrical energy and streamlines their internal processes. Improved fabric quality and shorter lead-times are other benefits derived from the new finishing line. This allows TROPIC KNITS to offer in future the highest possible quality and to position itself as a very good alternative to suppliers from China and the Far East.
Die Textilindustrie ist eine der Vorreiterbranchen bei der Nutzung neuer Technologien und innovativer Produkte. Auch die Additive Fertigung hat sie bereits für sich entdeckt, beispielsweise zur individuellen Gestaltung und Funktionalisierung von Textilien per 3D-Druck.
Welche Verfahren stehen zur Verfügung? Welche Ergebnisse werden dabei erzielt? Wer sind wichtige Anbieter und Erfahrungsträger? Im Workshop ADDITIVE FERTIGUNG IN DER TEXTILINDUSTRIE liefern das TITV und wir Antworten zu diesen und weiteren Fragen. >> JETZT BEIM TITV ANMELDEN
Anmeldeschluss ist der 21. Dezember 2017.
|Donnerstag, 11. Januar 2018
Textilforschungsinstitut Thüringen-Vogtland e.V.
|KARL MAYER – Obertshausen
KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH
Kegelmann Manufacturing GmbH & Co. KG
|Prof. Dr. Dr. Andrea Ehrmann
Fachbereich Ingenieurwissenschaften und Mathematik
Vortrag: „3D-Druck auf Textil – Herausforderungen und Chancen“
Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik
|Dr.-Ing. Martin Schilling
3D-Schilling GmbH, Sondershausen
Vortrag: „Sind textile Inserts in der additiven Fertigung Basis einer neuen Produktgeneration?“
|Dr. Frank Siegel
Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e. V.
Thema: „3D Druck und Textil – Ein Haftungsthema“
|Dr.-Ing Tobias Laumer
Leiter Prozesstechnik Kunststoffe
Bayerisches Laserzentrum GmbH
Senior Technical Consultant
The TMJ 4/1-T
Its terry business continues to be a focus of innovation at KARL MAYER. Following the revamp of the TM 4 TS terry warp knitting machine for processing staple-fibre yarns and its technical upgrade, together with various new textile developments, this company is now launching a new machine, which can produce an even greater range of patterns. The designation of the new TMJ 4/1-T alone shows that it is something quite unique. This terry warp knitting machine for processing filament yarns is the first of its kind with a jacquard bar included in the set of knitting elements, so that even lettering can be worked into towels, bathrobes and facecloths.
Lettering, logos and more
The jacquard bar on the TMJ 4/1-T enables new designs to be produced that have not been possible until now. Logos, lettering and floral effects can be worked, as well as geometric patterns and sweeping, decorative effects. Despite their fluffy surface structure, the pattern elements are extremely clear. They are worked and placed much more easily and flexibly than on the standard machine on one side of the fabric. The design is worked exclusively by the jacquard bar, whilst the ground lappings and main machine settings remain constant. The simple design of the knitting element produces loop-free, smooth areas on an otherwise three-dimensional fabric construction. The associated brushing unit produces a perfect, voluminous, fluffy surface. As the fabric passes this unit, the loops, which were formed by GB 1, are made more prominent and the underlaps on the other side of the fabric are raised up.
A tried-and-tested basic concept
The technology of the TMJ 4/1-T is based on the standard machine, the TM 4-T, and thus delivers the same high level of performance. For example, this new tricot machine operates at a maximum speed of 1,200 min-1. It is very easy to operate and produces high-quality products. During the course of the modification work, the jacquard bar has taken on the position of ground guide bar GB 4 on the original version to increase the range of patterns that can be worked. Certain new features have also been incorporated. For example, the control box with the oil cooling system forms a compact unit, which takes up less space, and the colour and warp beam frame meet the new corporate design specifications of the company group.
An affordable patterning system developed by EAT is available for carrying out patterning efficiently. It has been adapted to suit the specific requirements of the TMJ 4/1-T
The TMJ 4/1-T, with its design-driven configuration, is definitely arousing interest. Delivery of the first machines has already been arranged, and is scheduled for October 2017.
KARL MAYER China is looking forward to welcome you in Changzhou/China
The global market leader and trendsetter in warp knitting, warp preparation and technical textiles, KARL MAYER, is celebrating its 80th anniversary this year.
As one of the last highlights of our anniversary events we have the pleasure to invite you to our In-house Show at KARL MAYER (China) in Changzhou from 23 to 25 November.
|Opening Day||Opening hours||Food & Drinks|
|Thursday November 23rd||9:00 AM – 5:00 PM||all-day catering|
|Friday November 24th||9:00 AM – 5:00 PM||all-day catering|
|Saturday November 25th||9:00 AM – 5:00 PM||all-day catering & dinner party|
|For our visitors we provide a shuttle service to Shanghai on November 26th. (pick up 8:30 AM – Hotel Shangri-la)|
During our In-house Show we offer two kinds of lectures (duration approx 30min). Participation is limited to ensure quality and will be confirmed, please register early within the registration form.
You can also join one of our guided tours through the company.
|Lecture: WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS||daily|
|Lecture: KAMCOS 2.0 AND CONNECT APP||daily|
|Company Tour: “The KARL MAYER quality way!”||daily|
Warp preparation Weaving
KARL MAYER ( CHINA) LTD.
The online registration will be open until 17 November 2017.