MISSION: CYCLING TO WORK

27 Mahloneses have been pedalling hard

From 1 Mai to 31 August, there again was a mission called: Cycle to your workplace! For 16 years already the hands-on-activity for health promotion, initiated by AOK and ADFC (Common German Bicycle Club), exists. Almost as long as that, Mahlo is taking part in it. This year also, the Mahlo-employes pushed the pedals diligently.

The initiative’s main aim is to encourage having fun bycicling and exercising. Because one fact is obvious: anybody who leaves their car its parking spot more often, is not only doing something for their health but is also protecting the evironment. During the campaign, the participants have to cycle to work on at least 20 days. 27 Mahloneses – more than ten percent of the staff though – passed this test with flying colours.  Wind and weather conditions  are not used as an excuse by many. For them, the bycicle is the best way to go to work. That is also true for every sixth employed person in Germany.

Franz Gallmeier, chairman of the works committee, and CEO Rainer Mestermann praised the motivation and sportsmanship. Mestermann emphasised the athletic performance of the Mahloneses: “You conquered your weaker inner self time and time again. Together you certainly gathered several thousand kilometer.” The longest distance had René Thurow to conquer. His daily way to work are 16 Kilometers – one way! Mestermann advised his employees to always ensure their own safety and wished them a safe journey. As an acknowledgement for their performance, every participant got an Infuser-bottle.

Tecnología Regulador de la calada

 

El “warp separator” (separador de los hilos de urdimbre) es una tecnología de calada muy apreciada de Bonas que permite separar aún más los hilos de urdimbre en los dientes del peine. Así se evita que los hilos se peguen entre sí en el cruce, lo cual resulta en una calada mejor. Con los ajustes finos de calada y la posibilidad warp separator, Bonas ofrece una flexibilidad total y las condiciones óptimas para todo tipo de aplicaciones de tejido. Esta tecnología warp separator sólo es posible en los jacquards de Bonas y está disponible en dos versiones: el warp separator para tejido rizado, para separar el pelo de los hilos de urdimbre de fondo y el odd-even warp separator, para separar los hilos de urdimbre pares e impares.

 

An online process for the non-stop production of sacks on KARL MAYER’s RDS 11 EL machine

An online process for the non-stop production of sacks on KARL MAYER’s RDS 11 EL machine

KARL MAYER has revamped its machine technology for producing packaging sacks. As before, this fully integrated system enables ready-to-use, high-quality products to be manufactured non-stop from film at maximum efficiency. What is new, however, is the machine’s level of flexibility. As the most important element, the double-bar raschel machine has been equipped with an EL pattern drive, which enables variable sack lengths and lappings to be worked.

Five blades per inch produce tape yarns from film

An FTL unit is located at the beginning of the processing chain for producing sacks. This element in the production line has a cutting bar for cutting a double-layered, primary polyolefin film into tape yams and drawing them in a heating zone to produce monoaxial flat film yarns. These yarns are delivered to the Double-bar raschel machine, in depending of the demand. The needs-based delivery of the tape yarns is a decisive factor for online process control, just as is the exact harmonisation of the machine technology as a whole (Fig. 1). “With this non-stop sequence, everything must function perfectly and all the components have to be in perfect harmony, rather like an orchestra,” says Rainer Baier, a product developer, at the machine presentation.

A tried-and-tested basic design

An RDS 11 EL is used to knit (Fig. 2) the tape yarns to produce complete sacks. The machine is supplied with a width of 193″, a gauge of E 6, a threading arrangement of 1 in, 2 out, and a set of warp knitting elements comprising two compound needle bars, two knock-over comb bars, four ground guide bars and seven pattern bars. With this configuration, the RDS 11 EL works a combination of a pillar stitch and weft lapping. Two separate webs are produced, one by ground guide bars, GB 4 and GB 5, on the rear needle bar and one by GB 7 and GB 8 on the front needle bar. The two mesh webs are joined together on one side in the working direction by pattern bar, PB 6. The seam forms the base of the packaging sack. The opposite side is open to enable the sack to be filled. The openings in the horizontal direction are also closed, by changing the lapping, to produce the side seams of the sack.

The EL facility produces customised sacks

The RDS 11 EL offers a number of options for the efficient production of ready-to-use sacks, including the incorporation of sealing tapes, flaps for automatic filling, an adhesive strip for the subsequent application of labels, and contact yarns for subsequent process control. Above all, the dimensions of the product can be varied. For example, the opening widths of the nets can be varied via the stitch density, i.e. via the take-down, and by the lapping. The depth of the sack can also be changed via the threading arrangement of the guide bars as a function of the number of webs produced in parallel. The width of the sacks can also be varied as required. The width is determined by the repeat length, which can be freely selected and changed easily. The reason for this is that, unlike its predecessor, the RSD 11 EL has been equipped with a new feature, the EL pattern drive (Fig. 3).

This electronic system replaces the old, mechanical NNC type. It does not use pattern chains or discs and enables the pattern to be changed easily. The repeat lengths can also be changed easily to adjust the size of the sacks. The RDS 11 EL has also been newly equipped with the tried-and-tested KAMCOS®-system, so that its extensive potential can be easily exploited.

Stacks or rolls – both types of take-up are possible

Two systems are available for taking-up the warp-knitted sacks, i.e. the 26/6 batching unit and the STMR sack separating machine.

The batching unit produces rolls from the sack webs which, as “automatic sacks”, are fed fully automatically to the filling machine. Alternatively, the STMR process produces piles of individual sacks that are ready to be filled.

In this case, the textile webs run via a roller feed unit to a thermal cutting unit on a swivel-mounted frame (Fig. 4). Once the predetermined width of the sack has been reached, it is cut by a horizontal stroke of the cutting unit along the side seams. The RDS 11 EL incorporates a marking thread (Fig. 5), so that sensor technology can be used to detect the cutting points. The separated sacks are then stacked using the swivel-mounted frame until the set number has been reached. They are then removed via a conveyor belt (Fig. 6).

A machine that is ideally suited to the market

Thanks to online process control and the high efficiency of the RDS 11 EL, KARL MAYER’s line for producing sacks operates at an extremely high production rate. At a speed of 900 courses/min, an average of about 900 sacks per hour can be produced – depending on the dimensions selected and the stitch density.

The market is extremely impressed by this high productivity and flexibility. The first complete line with FTL unit and batching unit for automatic sacks left KARL MAYER’s headquarters in Obertshausen in September 2016. This delivery was the result of two years of successful development work.

LAST CHANCE TO SEE THE DENIM GALLERY BY TONELLO – KINGPINS TRANSFORMERS

 

KINGPINS TRANSFORMERS
Women in the indigo universe
October 24, 9.30 am, Amsterdam   

   

A look behind the indigo curtain to spotlight the role and stories of women in the denim industry. Featuring women who operate in managerial positions in different segments of the denim supply chain.

Book your seat at rsvp@htnk.nl

 
SHARE THE EXPERIENCE ON SOCIAL MEDIA
“Denim Gallery” will not only be seen in Amsterdam during the days of the fairs, but also on Tonello social media, on Facebook and Instagram, beginning with previews, stories, and live videos.

Kingpins Amsterdam: Where to find us

Latest News

September 14, by Tonello 
Tonello presents ECOfree 2 
Discover our brand-new ECOfree 2 system, which allows you to treat your garments with ozone both in water and in air.
September 14, by Tonello 
Welcome to Inspiring 
A new mentality that today finds its realization in our new Creative Area, in our brand new space called “Inspiring”.

 

DENIM GALLERY: AND THE WINNER IS…

DENIM GALLERY: AND THE WINNER IS…

At the New York Denim Days, which took place between 30 September and 1 October, visitors had the opportunity to admire the whole Denim Gallery project, and get to know the designers who took our challenge: Grace Warland, Matias Sandoval, Serena Conti, Su Kim & Jon Rouleau, Mika Mitarai, Juan Manuel Gomez, Ilinca Trif, Stefan Vella, and Greta Giannini.

Tonello Denim Gallery

The winner of the contest had already been selected during the recent “Inspiring” event by a jury that included some of the most important denim makers in the world. On the first day of New York Denim Days, Serena Conti was acclaimed as the first place winner, followed by Matias Sandoval, second, and Mika Mitarai, third. As the winner, Serena won an entire week of “creative freedom” at our Creative Area, where she can develop her own collection, experimenting without limits: a real paradise for a denim designer.

Graduated with honors from the Faculty of Design and Arts in Venice, Serena specializes in fashion design and illustration.

  • In 2008 her project “Confidences of Elements” was recognized internationally and exhibited at the Ichinomya Fashion Design Center in Japan.
  • In 2009 she collaborated with an exhibition of fashion photography in the trend research section of Palazzo Pitti for Pitti Filati starting in Florence. Also in 2009, she was asked to partecipate as a costume designer for the opening parade of the Venice Art Biennial directed by Arto Lindsay.
  • From 2010 to 2013 she worked in Venice as a consultant specializing in the denim department, planning and designing collections for major brands such as John Galliano and C’N’C Costume National.
  • At present, she is working as a freelance fashion and denim designer, even though, being an illustrator, her work actually spans many areas, including advertising, posters, websites, theatre sets, solo exhibitions and collaborations with national television networks and magazines.

“Waterloove” and “Boro Texnology”: these are the titles of the two concepts presented by Serena Conti, representing Reality and Vision to her. The first part was described by the designer as an interweaving of different realities: the past, memories, and wars; while the second part she describes as a connection between technology and the most romantic and natural of all possible worlds. This skillful playing with contrasts proved to be the deciding factor for the jury when voting for her concepts.

Tonello Denim Gallery Serena Conti

Many the technologies have been used by Tonello to reinterpret the creative visions of Serena Conti: ECOfree 2, the ultimate ozone washing system that allows treating garments with both ozone in the water and in the air in the same machine, thus creating new effect; Laser Blaze, which has been used to reproduce the intricate illustrations realized by the designer and to create rips and breakages; and NoStone®, used to realize stone-wash effects without the use of pumice stones, in a truly eco-sustainable way.

And so concludes what has been described as “one of the coolest events” of the Denim Days event, celebrating the thousands of potential expressions of Jeans, emphasizing their multi-directional, multi-sensorial, multi-medial and multi-dimensional expansion with an inspiring combination of art and fashion, painting and performance.

AND THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING.
SOMETHING EVEN MORE ORIGINAL AND UNPREDICTABLE IS COMING.

From Raw Cotton to Cotton Fabrics – TOYOTA NEWS

From Raw Cotton to Cotton Fabrics

The fabric usually used in the clothes we wear is produced through two processes: the “spinning process,” where raw cotton is turned into thread, and the “weaving process,” where the thread is woven into fabric. Here we will explain each process in detail using some illustrations.

The Spinning Process

Mixing and blowing
To begin the spinning process, the compressed staple fiber delivered to the spinning plant is unraveled using a mixing and blowing machine. It is then cleaned by removing substance such as leaves, seeds, or sand adhering to it. Finally, the staple fiber is processed into sheet-shaped “lap.”
Carding
The sheet-shaped lap processed in the mixing and blowing process is combed using the carding machine to separate the fibers and remove fine dust and short fibers. Remaining long fibers are aligned nearly parallel and collected to be processed into the string-shaped “carded sliver.”
Sliver lap former
From 18 to 24 carded slivers are fed together and side by side. They are drafted and a loose form of web is created. The web is rolled up to a lap. This is called “sliver lap.”
Combing
The carded sliver is further combed to remove short fibers and dust that could not be removed in the carding process. Fibers are then arranged parallel to obtain uniform combed sliver. This process is essential to manufacture uniform, high-quality yarn.
Drawing
Six to eight slivers after the carding or combing process are gathered and elongated to six to eight times their original length using a drawing machine to straighten and remove uneven thickness from the fibers. This process transforms fibers into string-like “drawn sliver.”
Roving
Since the drawn sliver is too thick to produce yarns directly, it is further elongated using a roving machine. Twisting is first applied to fibers in this process to obtain the green yarn, which is wound onto a bobbin.
Spinning
In the fine spinning process, the last of the main spinning processes, the green yarn resulting from the roving process is further elongated to obtain a desired thickness and then twisted. The final product, or the finished yarn, is wound on a bobbin.
Winding
The winding process involves rewinding the finished yarn onto bobbins into the cheese or cone according to its purpose.
 
To weaving process

Weaving process

In weaving, the warp thread and weft yarn are crossed over one another in a set method in order to weave the required type of fabric. A machine designed to accomplish this task is called a loom. First, the warp thread and weft yarn are prepared so that they can be set into the loom.

Warping
Cheese/cones are set on a warping machine to wind the predetermined length and number of yarns onto the predetermined number of warping beams under constant tension.
Sizing
The warping beams of the required number of warps of the final textile are piled up for rewinding on beams after sizing and drying.
Drawing-in
To prepare for setting beams on a loom, warps are routed in the order of droppers, healds and guide bars.
Weaving
Prepared beams are set on a looming frame to weave a textile in the following five motions:

1. Shedding: two groups of warps are opened to let the weft pass through.
2. Picking: The weft is inserted between two groups of warps.
3. Beat-up: Pushing the newly inserted yarn back into the fell using reed.
4. Let-off: The warp yarns are unwound from the warp beam.
5. Take-up: The woven fabric is wound on the cloth beam.

Inspection/ Folding
The fabric is inspected and folded. Imperfections are corrected as required. The fabric is then graded.
Packing
The fabric is packed in a manner appropriate to the shipping conditions.
Product
The finished product is sold.

KARL MAYER is supporting the Vietnamese warp knitting sector along its path towards modernisation and refurbishment

Onwards and upwards

Vietnam’s textile and clothing companies are currently being upgraded. Last year, the Ministry of Industry and Trade (MOIT) presented the government with a general restructuring plan for the period covering 2016 to 2020. The document cites numerous objectives, which relate to the geographic relocation of companies, as well as the closure of fibre- and textile-producing companies working with out-dated technology, and increasing the productivity of the Vietnamese textile industry by for example using fewer highly efficient machines. KARL MAYER is assisting Vietnamese companies with the installation of more up-to-date machines and equipment in the warp knitting sector

This innovative global market leader in the building of warp knitting machines, among others, has detected this increasing demand from the state of its order books. “A great deal of money is being invested in Vietnam,” confirms Rainer Müller, the Sales Director for Asia. Many domestic manufacturers are currently modernising and extending their plants. Companies have specialised in the production of mosquito nets and are now looking for new applications. Italian, Korean, Taiwanese and Chinese companies are also investing in Vietnamese subsidiaries.

There will be a “KARL MAYER Workshop Vietnam” in November 2017 to support this modernisation and expansion process, not only by supplying high-tech machines, but also by providing the necessary know-how. The event is presented by the sole agent of KARL MAYER in Vietnam, ILLIES Engineering Vietnam Co., Ltd. The topic of the workshop is the introduction to the principles of warp knitting on Tricot Machines with focus on HKS 3-M. It is providing following Services:

       Display of KARL MAYER’s Machinery

–       Explanation of KARL MAYER’s Machinery functions based on the KARL                    MAYER’s guidelines

–       Guidance for installation services of KARL MAYER’s Machinery

–       Guidance for exchanging spare parts of KARL MAYER’s Machinery”

The workshop is taking place from 13 to 17 November and 20 r to 24 November 2017.

More information on the training courses is available at Ms. Phuong, ILLIES Engineering Vietnam Co. Ltd, under the phone number +84 (28) 7300 7575 or under KarlMayer_Workshop_Vietnam@illies.com.