Lace for everything and everyone – KARL MAYER

As the world shifts, so does lace – but where are they going to? The fashion expert, Christel Aarts, provides some of the answers

Since its early beginnings in the 15th century, lace has been used to embellish, seduce and beguile. At that time, the fabric between the embroidered areas was removed, leaving behind only the white embroidery. Over the years, these delicate fabrics have changed many times. Now more than ever, it is worth taking a new look at lace.

Modern yarns, high-tech machines and optimised finishing processes are offering completely new design possibilities, thus opening up the potential for new applications and business fields. This sector is on the move – from lingerie to sportswear, from the shelves in women’s boutiques to the collections in menswear shops, from creating traditional decorative effects to making a functional fashion statement. Something that was once just an idea has now become a reality. KWP’s editor, Ulrike Schlenker, spoke recently to the innovations consultant, Christel Aarts, when they discussed where this journey is leading.

US: Digitisation is bringing about change in all areas of our social life, for example, communication via social media. Are there any mega trends that are having an influence on both our clothing but particularly on lace?

CA: In the past, fashion trends were set by designers and industry gatekeepers, such as buyers in the large retail chains and magazine editors. Digitisation and social media have re-distributed power in the industry towards the average consumer and social media influencers. The average consumer has instant access to every trend, can view catwalks in real-time from their couch, and purchase an outfit that a blogger posts directly from their phone. The industry is aware of this re-distribution of power, and access to the end consumer has become vital. As end consumers, we like to think that accessing all this information allows us to express ourselves in a more individualistic manner. However, I believe the reverse is true. Social media steer us towards the same imagery, fashion trends are more global rather than local, and we see more and more hypes. Digitisation has allowed for visualisation of the product. For clothing to be noticed, there are aspects such as colour/contrast and prints that have more visual impact on a screen. Lace, with its patterns, colours and textures, also has a strong visual impact, and is therefore perfectly suited to visualisation on the Internet. Reducing the cost of lace, thanks to new technology, has allowed customers with different budgets to embrace lace products, and continuous innovation will allow for lace to become a more mainstream product, which can be adapted to different product categories.

US: Speaking of product categories: athleisure, swimtimates, the pyjama dress… everyone talks of a genre mix. Nevertheless, lace details only appeared sporadically in the pure sportswear collections presented at this year’s OutDoor exhibition in Friedrichshafen and ISPO in Munich. What level of performance does lace need to have in order to find its way into sportswear?

CA: In recent years, we have seen a huge shift in the acceptance of lace in outerwear. While in the past, lace was mainly limited to couture, lingerie, bridal and nightwear, we have seen a revolution in the way lace is accepted as the main material in outerwear, as well as the acceptance of lingerie/nightwear style garments as outerwear garments. No doubt, this is influencing its acceptance in sportswear. However, for lace to become a breakthrough product in performance sportswear we would have to re-think the concept of lace. That would mean looking at how lace products could add additional value comparatively to the current materials available for sportswear, what properties the material should have, and finally how it should look. In particular, functional properties, which optimise the thermal physiology and comfort against the skin, should be considered. The freedom you have in lace design could be used, for example, to support movement through an optimal combination of stretch and compressive structures, allow for breathability and, in the near future, incorporate wearable electronics that monitor performance. From a design perspective, you might want to consider moving away from the typical floral execution towards a more graphic, logo-inspired execution.

US: Is there a way to make lace attractive for men’s clothing, for example by using graphic designs?

CA: Lace is generally associated with fragile, refined, seductive and sensual characteristics, words that do not evoke a typical masculine association. However, if we look at long-term trends, we see that gender roles are becoming less defined and more overlapping. This will have an impact on how we dress and what we find acceptable. For women in the West, a more masculine, tougher dress code has long been accepted. For men, we have seen in the last 20 years a huge change in the acceptance of skincare and beauty products, as well as a general focus on appearance and the way men style themselves. As a result, a more feminine dress code for men is slowly becoming more acceptable. Formal dressing, such as wedding suits and shirts, might be a first thought, but the biggest opportunity could potentially lie in sportswear, if we can really re-think the concept of lace and change the way lace performs, feels on the skin, and looks visually.

US: About the topic “re-think the concept of lace”: what would you as an innovations consultant want from a machine manufacturer?

CA: From a design perspective I would like maximum flexibility and adaptability to different yarns, textures and patterning techniques, whilst of course maintaining technical standards and cost targets. From an innovation perspective, I would love to see machinery that is flexible, can deal with small quantities or even allow for custom-made designs, where the focus is on sustainability and quality rather than cost.


KARL MAYER’s WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS has some new features

Buying with a smartphone

KARL MAYER’s WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS is not a static buying system but a tool that is constantly being upgraded and improved. One of the latest new developments is the scan-to-order function – a feature for the quick and easy ordering of spare parts via a smartphone. This is available initially for needle units but will later be extended to other components. For this function, KARL MAYER has combined its CHECK PARTS app with the WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS facility. An order is placed simply by scanning the data matrix code on the check slip of the needle units, without having to input any additional data. The scanned products are added automatically to the webshop’s shopping basket and the ordering process runs automatically.

This online process is even more advanced in China. The ordered item can be paid for directly using the popular Alipay payment platform. “China is ahead of us when it comes to modern payment methods. This is why we have adapted our process for our Chinese users,” explains Axel Wintermeyer, the Head of KARL MAYER’s Spares Department.

This new function makes it even easier for the company’s clients to order spare parts during their day-to-day operations – for ordering on site, as well as for warehousing. If a part runs out, it can be reordered using automatic data transfer via the scan-to-order function, without incurring any additional internal administrative costs. Maintaining internal authorisation guidelines also enables user hierarchies to be established easily.

In addition to the selected products, the WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS will also allow supplementary technical products to be ordered in future. This useful cross-selling function is new and will support customers when ordering spare parts.

The number of available languages for the webshop at the company’s headquarters has now been increased to 12, and Korean, Chinese, Vietnamese, Indonesian, Thai, Portuguese, Italian and French have also been added.

In June 2018, Japan started its own webshop, which generated a great deal of interest. “Many of our key customers have already registered,” says Tetsuji Yasumura, the Head of Product Management, Spare Parts. In the run-up to the launch, many companies on the Japanese market were already making enquiries about this easy-to-use online tool.

With the setting-up of the Japanese version, the WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS facility is now available at every location in the KARL MAYER Group. The next changes are already being planned. “The feedback on our webshop is motivation enough for us to continue with it and expand the ordering system. Our aim is to be the ‘Best in Class’ in the online procurement of spare parts,” says Axel Wintermeyer when speaking about his objectives.




At the next edition of Kingpins in Amsterdam, Tonello will be presenting an exclusive collection of denim garments made in collaboration with Amy Leverton. Created under the banner of sustainability and memory.

Tonello Re-invented in Italy

We’re calling it Re-invented in Italy, the “inspiring” event Tonello has imagined for the next edition of Kingpins in Amsterdam (24-25 October). This is going to be a fascinating journey through time to rediscover the origins of “Made in Italy”, the origins of that “golden age” where a magical and propitious mix of talent and craftsmanship, style and know-how, genius and production capacity irreversibly changed the history of jeans, transforming them from “commodity-garments” into extraordinary interpreters of the contemporary.

Tonello has launched a tempting and difficult challenge to Amy Leverton, author of Denim Dudes: a challenge to create a denim collection inspired by the triple imperative of “Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle”. Reduce energy consumption as well as water and chemical products; reuse, to give new life to vintage garments; recycle fibers and materials.

A unique collection has been created from this encounter between Tonello’s sustainable technologies and Amy Leverton’s creativity – a collection consisting of jeans, shorts, jackets, dungarees, and t-shirts… – all produced using recycled denim fabrics from Candiani DenimTejidos RoyoBossaOrta Anadolu and Arvind. Details and elements from vintage items of Italian brands (Diesel, Replay, Benetton, Versace, Fiorucci, Iceberg, Ellesse, Enrico Coveri, Trussardi Jeans) have been applied to the garments; the labels, also made of recycled materials, are by Panama Trimmings.

The strength of this collection lies, above all, in its re-proposing fragments of collective memory, familiar elements, and deja-vu, in new and surprising ways and contexts. It does so thanks to the progressively evolved technologies that are increasingly able to combine the ethics of sustainability with the infinite options of creativity without limits.

Cheerful and surprising combinations, with an affectionately retro flavor; material compositions and 3D effects; a mix of fibers and carefree accessories; extra large sizes and improbable colors, perfectly integrated in the context: all this to reproduce the knowledge and taste of a highly energetic and primordial fashion, where every path was still open and every style was still allowed, where everything was, and still is, possible.



Successful start of ITMA Asia 2018

High-ranking visitors with great interest in the topic of sustainability

articles. The production of these fabrics requires by far less resources than the traditionally applied water-jet-weaving process and does not emit any waste water. Read more by checking the KARL MAYER website:

The interest in the sustainability presentation is very high. Right on the first day KARL MAYER received a high-ranking delegation with members from politics, administration and entrepreneurs from Wujiang Shengze. 

Textile companies from Wujiang Shengze and KARL MAYER are jointly developing new fabrics for a greener future of the city.

A delegation of high-ranking representatives from politics, administration and companies from Wujiang Shengze at KARL MAYER’s stand



Warp knitted alternatives to save water for an environmentally friendly textile production

CLEANER.PRODUCTIONS are intelligent, end-use applicable concepts as an environmentally friendly alternative to traditional production methods.

Environmental protection is an important topic for KARL MAYER, and sustainable production is becoming increasingly important in textile production and therefore also at our customers as well as all textile producers. That is why our support is made up of efficient machines that score highly in terms of environmental protection through the latest technological innovations.

Our latest environmental contribution CLEANER.PRODUCTIONS stands for zero water pollution compared to other production methods especially water jet looms. This protects sustainable resources while contributing to a cleaner environment. 

TM 3 – your environmental  friendly alternative compared to water jet loom machines 

Warp knitted fabrics – ecological advantages for production

Warp knitted fabrics score points, not only with regard to their variety, but also in relation to their ecological benefits.


No water pollution during the production process on TM 3 machines, this also means that no of the sizing agent PVA* is drained. (*Polyvinyl alcohol)


This warp knitting machines operate at an impressive level of efficiency – with a speed of 2.000 rpm, the TM 3 has a daily production rate of about 3206 sqm/d – one waterjet weaving machines produces only 12 % of a TM 3


The total energy consumption to produce the same amount of fabric is 2,7 times less than with waterjet weaving.


By using Warp Knitting instead of Waterjet Weaving less than one third of  factory space is needed. This means a 3 times higher GDP value per square meter of factor space (for the same output as with waterjet weaving). It means also less amount of sealed industrial land surface, and less investment cost for purchasing the land!

CLEANER.PRODUCTIONS: save water with our environmentally friendly, warp knitting technology !!!!

KARL MAYER is launching KM.ON – a new brand for delivering digital solutions at a market leader level – and is also showcasing its own software start-up

Conquering the digital world – with KM.ON

On 15 October 2018, KARL MAYER is unveiling its new digital brand at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 in Shanghai. KM.ON stands for “digital driven innovation”. This brand brings together the digital solutions portfolio of the KARL MAYER Digital Factory, a new software start-up, and the entire KARL MAYER Group.

KARL MAYER is systematically driving the topic of digitisation forward in order to seize the opportunities offered by the upheavals of our time. “Digitisation is a basic component of our company strategy. With our corporate start-up, the KARL MAYER Digital Factory, we have a software company at our disposal that can act quickly and customer-oriented on the market. Another integral part of KARL MAYER’s digitisation strategy is its participation in ADAMOS, a strategic alliance of German global market leaders in machine construction and the Software AG. On the basis of the ADAMOS technology, and as part of this network for developments, KARL MAYER is living up with the product portfolio of the new KM.ON brand to its claim of being a global market leader also in terms of digital Solutions,“ says KARL MAYER’s Managing Director, Arno Gärtner.

The KARL MAYER Digital Factory is a pioneering company operating alongside this innovative market leader. It employs a team of software specialists and technology experts in a new, creative environment away from the main company headquarters. When speaking about the objectives, Maximilian Kürig who, together with Antonia Gottschalk is one of the managing directors, says, “This new venture should develop efficient digital solutions quickly and flexibly for the benefit of our customers and deliver them under its own, new umbrella brand,” since “Digital solutions are expanding the possibilities of considerably improving the efficiency of our customers’ production processes and giving them unparalleled competitive advantages.”

KM.ON’s digital portfolio of services will support customers in selected areas and is made up of eight solution categories. k.ey – a conventional industry PC together with an appropriate software – provides access to the solutions. The platform of hardware and software can be installed easily and links the machines securely to the protected cloud. This is based on the expertise gained by participating in ADAMOS with regard to the use of an open IIoT environment which is specifically focused on the needs of machinery and plant construction. This enables the benefits of KM.ON to be exploited easily and securely.

At ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018, the system, which is made up of eight KM.ON solution categories, together with the first apps and solutions covering the three areas of Management, Maintenance and Service, are being presented.

  • enables the customer to look at the current production process, regardless of location and in real time. The production data are displayed clearly on a dashboard. This simple way of delivering information improves process transparency and acts as a valid database for decision-making and planning. These advantages are based on KARL MAYER’s own system of machine networking.
  • The solutions in the k.maintenance category are designed to support customers in their own maintenance operations. As the first solution, KARL MAYER is showcasing the CHECK PARTS app for testing the authenticity of the spare parts, with expanded functions. Above all, the scan-to-order feature is new and makes it even easier to order spare parts online. Automatic data transfer improves the customers’ day-to-day operations when ordering on site, as well as for warehousing.
  • k.service’s product world will, in the long term, include all the functions that manage the communication between the customer and KARL MAYER, should the client require assistance. The ability to make contact quickly, together with efficient communication procedures, guarantees a high level of machine availability. In Shanghai, KARL MAYER is showcasing the latest developments in this system, which is based on the tried-and-tested CONNECT app.

Steps will be taken in the near future to expand the offers of KM.ON. Other solutions and the expansion phases for existing products are already being planned, e.g. in the areas of data analysis, condition monitoring and the digital machine logbook.








Measure and control technology for Indonesian plastics industry

“You can’t manage what you don’t measure”: This is the motto under which the Mahlo GmbH Co. KG showcases at Plastics and Rubber Indonesia from 14 to 17 November in Jakarta. At booth D1-8101 the German machine builder informs about the latest technology in quality measurement and process control.

“Especially in the coating and extrusion sector, transparent production processes help to save costs and to increase the product quality”, Area Sales Manager Stephan Kehry explains. With the Qualiscan QMS, Mahlo offers a measurement and control system that defines parameter such as thickness, basis weight, density, coating thickness or moisture on running web. Suitable for each application, different sensors and scanners are available. The sensors are traversing constantly across the whole fabric width. In doing so, they measure, record and control the required features. Dependent on application and product, beta-, x-ray-, laser- or infrared-radiators are put to use. “We have scanners that can host up to five sensors”, Kehry further clarifies.

Even for special problems in plastics production, where regular measurement systems often reach their limits, Mahlo offers the right solution. For very thin films, for example, the Infrascope NIR is the perfect tool. It measures the reflection of infrared energy and determines basis weight and moisture at the same time. The beta sensor Gravimat DFI is the specialist for determining basis weight of composites. It is not impressed by uneven and fluttering web – often a problem – and produces precise measuring results.

“Our goal is to compose a system that is exactly what the client needs”, Kehry emphasizes. This way, one can reduce energy and raw material while increasing product quality at the same time. “That differentiates the producer from its competition and ensures a significant degree of sustainability.      


Danitech nasce dalla volonta’ di un gruppo di tecnici, con una forte specializzazione nello studio, progettazione e realizzazione di macchine per la nobilitazione tessile maturata in primarie aziende del settore meccanotessile , di proporre al mercato tessile mondiale una linea di prodotti ad altissimo contenuto tecnologico che offra, alle aziende impegnate nella nobilitazione delle fibre tessili, la possibilita’ di affrontare le sfide di un mercato sempre piu’ competitivo  con la necessaria , quanto fondamentale, attenzione all’impatto ambientale. La progettazione e la costruzione di tutti i prodotti danitech è interamente realizzata in italia presso i nostri stabilimenti in Senago (Milano) in viale europa 4b/c


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